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I'm not a big baker (other than bread) because I'm just not much of a sweets eater, so cakes and pies (except pumpkin pie, which I like to eat for breakfast--it takes all kinds) aren't part of my repertoire. I don't bake bread often because I don't eat a lot of sandwiches and a loaf of bread will go bad before I finish it. These rolls are in another category because I can freeze them once they've cooled after baking and thaw as needed to accompany soups and salads.

Yeast Rolls
Makes 18

1/4 cup warm water (105-115°F)
1 (1/4-oz) package active dry yeast (2 1/4 teaspoons)
1 tablespoon mild honey
2 teaspoons salt
3 to 3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup well-shaken buttermilk at room temperature
1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter, melted
Vegetable oil for greasing bowl
1 large egg, lightly beaten with 1 tablespoon water

Special equipment: an instant-read thermometer (for checking water temperature); a clean kitchen towel (not terry cloth); parchment paper

Stir together water, yeast, and honey in a small bowl and let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. (If mixture doesn't foam, discard and start over with new yeast.)

Stir salt into 3 cups flour in a large bowl, then add yeast mixture, buttermilk, and butter, stirring until a soft dough forms.

Turn out dough onto a floured surface and knead, adding just enough more flour to prevent sticking, until smooth and elastic, 6 to 10 minutes.

Form dough into a ball and transfer to an oiled large bowl, turning to coat. Cover bowl with kitchen towel and let dough rise in a draft-free place at warm room temperature until doubled in bulk, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.

Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead several times to remove air. Cut dough into 18 equal pieces. Cup your hand over 1 piece and, using your thumb and pinkie to keep ball inside your cupped hand, push dough with heel of your hand against work surface while rolling in a circular motion (clockwise or counterclockwise) to form a smooth ball. Repeat with remaining pieces of dough, arranging balls 1 inch apart on baking sheet. Cover loosely with kitchen towel and let rolls rise in a draft-free place at warm room temperature until doubled in bulk, 1 to 1 1/4 hours.

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 375°F.

Brush rolls lightly with egg wash and bake until rolls are golden brown and sound hollow when tapped on bottom, 15 to 18 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool at least 15 minutes.

Cooks' note:
Rolls can be baked up to 1 month ahead and cooled completely, then frozen in sealed plastic bags (preferably double-bagged). Thaw and reheat before serving.

I like to buy my artisanal breads at the local farmers' market, along with artisanal cheeses. Fresh bread, good cheese and a piece of fruit or fistful of grapes makes a perfectly wonderful lunch.

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