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A Night in the Tropics

I just discovered that my favorite Cuban restaurant is still in business! Hooray! They simply moved while I was busy with other things. Their ropa viejo is so good that I rarely order anything else. With a side of rice to soak up the juice and a dish of black beans, I think I could eat this every day.

Ropa Viejo (Old Rags)
For 8, but this is easy to cut down

For braising beef:
3 pounds London Broil or brisket
1 quart beef stock
1 bottle of good red wine
2 carrots, chopped coarse
1 large onion, chopped coarse
2 celery ribs, chopped coarse
1 bay leaf
3 garlic cloves, crushed lightly
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

2 green bell peppers, cut into 1/4-inch strips
1 red onion, cut into 1/4-inch strips
4 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups braising liquid plus additional if desired
a 14- to 16-ounce can whole tomatoes with juice, chopped
3 tablespoons tomato paste
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
2 red bell peppers, cut into 1/4 inch strips
2 yellow bell peppers, cut into 1/4 inch strips
1/2 cup pimiento-stuffed Spanish olive, drained and halved

Accompaniment:
For yellow rice with toasted cumin:
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons cuminseed
1/4 teaspoon crumble saffron thread
2 cups unconverted long-grain rice
4 cups water
3/4 teaspoon salt

To braise beef:

In a 5-quart kettle combine all braising ingredients and simmer, uncovered, 1 1/2 hours, or until beef is tender. Remove kettle from heat and cool meat in liquid 30 minutes. Transfer meat to a platter and cover. Strain braising liquid through a colander, pressing on solids, into a bowl. Return braising liquid to kettle and boil until reduced to 3 cups, about 30 minutes. Stew may be made up to this point 1 day ahead. Cool braising liquid completely and chill it and the beef separately, covered.

In kettle cook green bell peppers and onion in 2 tablespoons oil over moderate heat, stirring, until softened.

While vegetables are cooking, pull meat into shreds about 3 by 1/2 inches. To onion mixture add shredded meat, 2 cups braising liquid, tomatoes with juice, tomato paste, garlic, cumin, oregano, and salt and pepper to taste and simmer, uncovered, 20 minutes.

While stew is simmering, in a large skillet cook red and yellow bell peppers in remaining 2 tablespoons oil over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened. Stir peppers into stew with enough additional braising liquid to thin to desired consistency and simmer, uncovered, 5 minutes. Stir in peas and olives and simmer, uncovered, 5 minutes.

Serve ropa vieja with yellow rice.

To make the yellow rice:

In a heavy 3-quart saucepan heat oil over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking and sauté cuminseed 10 seconds, or until it turns a few shades darker and is fragrant. Stir in saffron and rice and sauté, stirring, 1 to 2 minutes, or until rice is coated well. Stir in water and salt and boil rice, uncovered and without stirring, until surface of rice is covered with steam holes and grains on top appear dry, 8 to 10 minutes more. Remove pan from heat and let rice stand, covered, 5 minutes. Fluff rice with a fork.

This is a fair amount of work, but I think your family and friends will agree that it is worth the results. You can also do the stew in a crockpot, and this works very, very well. Don't add the veggies (except the onions) until the last thirty minutes if you are cooking on Low.

DC has one of the most varied collections of ethnic restaurants in the country. Living here has really expanded my culinary horizons.

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